Trad vs sport climbing reddit. How do the easy routes (5.

Trad vs sport climbing reddit. 5-9. Jan 8, 2024 · Learn the key differences between sport and trad climbing, two types of outdoor roped rock climbing. 'Traditional' vs 'sport' climbing are the labels we use for using your own protection (trad) or using pre placed bolts (sport). I carry about 8-10 at the Gunks. 3). The home of Climbing on reddit. I've been trying to figure out what the differences actually are between competition and traditional style. IMO, use alpine draws for trad climbing. I've been using shoes widely considered a multi-pitch trad shoe for everything for years. Just listened to this interesting podcast from Alex Honnold where he talks about British trad and how different it is to trad everywhere else. If you are new to outdoor climbing you'll probably be starting off doing sport and top rope so you wont always have to spend long hours in your shoes without breaks, so I would recommend prioritizing feeling good climbing in them over other factors. I've climbed sport and I boulder and can make the obvious distinction there. 8kn vs 12. 9- hardest onsite, I feel comfortable on 5. For this, having short, stiff dogbones makes the whole handling easier, and you probably want them to be burlier because they're going to take a lot of falls when you're sport climbing at your limit. A fair chunk of trad climbing in the UK is face climbing. The best shoe is the one that fits your foot and meets your needs. The main issue is that you need to decide on a good day whether you go to the rocks or to the trails. I’ve been climbing about 8 years, leading trad consistently for maybe 3. I'd certainly round out your cam selection down to maybe the gold dragonfly before ever thinking about hexes for summer rock. I'd suggest that trad accidents are more often reported than sport accidents: Trad climbers tend to be more experienced. If you fell you would lower to the ground, pull the rope and start it again. 7 but actually started up Mama Woolsey 5. He is adamant that top-roping is absolutely NOT sport climbing. The general fitness from MTB riding helps you for climbing and the muscle training of climbing helps you for riding. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. 10a “R”. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. You must have been talking to some old dads from Yosemite or the gunks. Should I consider lightweight draws if I want to transition to trad in the future? Should I keep sport and trad gear separate -- double down and get sport-only quickdraws that heavy but sturdy with thick dog bones to hangdog? Should I pay a little more for the US-manfactured biners vs. Now I'm on an exchange program to Scotland and there's not much outdoor sports climbing here so learning to trad climb would be ideal I guess. This article will explain the differences between the two main types of roped rock climbing - sport climbing vs trad climbing (traditional climbing). How do the easy routes (5. Sport or Lead climbing is when you attach your rope, using quick draws, to fixed anchors in the wall as you go up. I used to care about solid gates and gate flutter, but I stopped giving a toodleboot about if climbing trad a softer catching low impact rope may be beneficial for marginal gear again to prevent senseless arguments ill simply post the beal numbers, which is based off CAI (italian alpine club research) models 691 votes, 162 comments. • Trad- Arc’teryx alpha AR 35 Sport- mountain Hardwear cragwagon 35 Multi pitch desert- BD creek 20 Multi pitch alpine- BD Blitz 20 Reply reply mocfilm • single pitch - petzl kliff - simple, light, comfortable, with a rope tarp and cheap multipitch - Simond rock 20 - superlight 290g, convenient and comfortable for 35 euros Reply reply Rip That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). Add to that the fact that a lot of trad climbing requires specific skills, like jamming or friction slabs, that are hard to train effectively indoors and also quite rare in sport climbing. 6 at tahquitz or J Tree. 6, 5. I’m looking for recommendations for a shoe for hard single pitch trad. My SO and I got into an argument about sport climbing. I was leading up to about 5. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). Sport and regular bouldering are not really extreme IMO. imported? Brands to look at, brands to avoid, etc? Been using a 7mm cordalette for 10+ years. New looks nice but to me felt worse. Depends on what you're doing. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. I got into climbing this year and have spent a lot of indoor climbing, both top roping and bouldering. But still, i think it Wire gates are lighter but snag on things. The intended use is for single pitch trad and sport climbing, at the project level. com Feb 25, 2021 · The biggest difference between sport climbing and trad climbing is protection. 9 is my hardest trad lead with a 5. It was a cold and windy January in Joshua Tree, my partner and I both had no experience trad climbing, but a good amount of sport under our belt. Aug 21, 2023 · Sport and top rope climbing differ in terms of techniques, equipment, and physical and mental demands, and they have their own pros and cons. I've a friend that finds the idea of rock climbing very dangerous but I suspect it might not be any more dangerous than driving to work. Sport climbers are so strong that they can pull a snagged solid gate draw off of anything. And therefore more into . See full list on climbinghouse. The old school meaning of trad was to always climb from the ground up. Does anyone know of the data to compute such an answer? I'd also be curious to compare different types of climbing: bouldering (indoor vs outdoor), sport, trad, and alpine. Trad gear (placing, bouncing, falling) absolutely damages sandstone, and other rock to a lesser degree, but it’s only a contention because those cracks are also used for hand/foot placement, whereas in sport climbing the holds aren’t affected by the protection. Very overwhelmed on where to start. Nevertheless, a fatality risk remains, especially in alpine and ice climbing. A friend and I learnt trad climbing with a guide, and he told us to avoid using static materials for building anchors, as it can be harder on the anchor points in case of a fall, which is more likely for them to fail. I have been strictly top rope so far and have gotten up to 5. Logistics play a huge part! If you have experience with trad climbing, it will certainly be easier, but you really have to study the ideas and techniques behind how everything works. Feb 14, 2022 · A comprehensive analysis of 30 years worth of data of climbing accidents recorded in Accidents in North American Climbing. There are a Reddit's rock climbing training community. 12a. At the level you're climbing at now and looking to climb, technique is 95% of your success so don't worry about training, worry about getting better at reading and climbing cracks of all sizes. This is going by the numbers of ticks on MP on popular sport vs. I love trad climbing, hence why I created this subreddit, but ultimately, it's different strokes for different folks. 11a/b sport climbing outdoors, hardest redpoint outdoors is a 5. 5. Apr 29, 2024 · If you're just getting into rock climbing via the climbing gym, you've probably heard a lot of lingo you don't quite understand. 3x as many? Making trad 6x more dangerous per pitch? I'd imagine its more, possibly up to an order-of-magnitude of difference. Even then, I prefer a draw that's flexible. All brands fit differently as well so maybe offering to purchase one in your budget is a good idea. Am I wrong with assuming that lead climbing and top roping are encompassed within sport climbing? Trad and sport harnesses can be different with the padding and gear loop layouts. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. When free climbing trad routes , you must use special devices for removable protection as opposed to permanently placed hardware. Sport routes tend to be delicate and steep. Opinions on trad shoes I'm looking for a good trad/crack shoe that can smear well and has all day comfort. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. Following a sport route isn't much different than following a trad pitch, but when you start multipitching speed is everything which makes it much more of a team effort. The skillets aren't exactly the same (trad is more endurance, and sport is more power endurance), but if you get good at one, you get good at the other. only single pitch sport is where i’ll bust out a 120cm nylon sling as a PAS to clean anchors. Easy trad at red rock is easy. 8 trad (with a few exceptions), 5. Likely hanging some TR as well and harder multipitch. ). Yosemite has a heavy bias or 'ethic' toward trad and only those walls where you absolutely cannot get a piece of gear into the wall for a long distance get bolted. Find out how they vary in safety, difficulty, mental skills and more. 7, but it took so long to get here that it feels like I’ll never be a 5. it's dangerous. I also have no intention of starting a sport vs trad vs bouldering debate, as the question I'm asking is only really about trad, and I understand rapping or lowering off of fixed anchors/chains on a sport route. For sport multipitch I’ve used a single when abs are short or half ropes. Trad-climbing versus sport climbing, the international climbing federation, the UIAA, looks to find a balance by producing a document entitled "The Preservation of Natural Rock for Adventure Climbing" What makes you enjoy sport/trad climbing? Is it the adventure? The physical challenge? Getting a little scared running it out but keeping the headspace you need to execute? All of the above? Bouldering is similar, but I think boulderers and trad climbers are driven by different things. I read Big-Wall Climbing, by Jared Ogden to get started, and also read lots of material on internet forums, including Chris McNamara's How to Big Wall Climb. We did a lot of top roping together throughout my childhood and sport climbing as we got older, but I've never seen him trad climb. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. It Yes, I am talking about the Solution Guide. Curious what folks use and are happy with. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I primarily boulder and always thought things were technical just because they felt difficult or had to be precise on my boulder projects but those sport and trad climbers have so many more knee bars hand jams slabs faces pockets dihedral aretes. I started with 4 which in most cases was enough, I was using extendable only when needed and using my sport draw for when I needed no extension. Two years ago, though, I got into trad and haven't looked back. Been trad climbing for a while now, and have slowly built up a decent trad rack. 11b/c and hardest redpoint is a 5. Extendable slings are great in this setting. There is also trad climbing where you do not use anchors, but put your own gear into the wall. 12 votes, 48 comments. I'm British and I've always climbed in the 'British way' so never considered that people would do it differently. Hello! I've been climbing for about 2 years now, but over the past 3 months have been going on a regular basis and getting more serious about it. I love TC pros but have always had them sized for comfort and can wear my current size all day on long multipitches and alpine routes. My take is that the dragons are really great for alpine climbing. Mar 21, 2022 · Trad climbing and sport climbing have different techniques and equipment requirements. Sport draws are too rigid for use on nut placements and don't help that much on cam placements unless the line you climb is very straight. Thoughts on 6mm cordalette use exclusively as a multipitch trad anchor? If you haven't done much sport climbing, you should familiarize yourself with the challenge of putting up draws and clipping with sport climbing, it gets a lot worse when you are fumbling around for the right piece and can't get that cam into a good position in a flaring crack! I've always thought of gym climbing as training for outside, is this just changing with the increasing popularity of the sport? Is this a good/bad thing? for me, indoor climbing has always been my main sport activity throughout the year, with only the occasional outdoor climbing. Kinda curious about what everyone else has in mind for their own dream rack. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. Should I get comfortable lead climbing indoors and outdoors first before hopping onto trad, or can I go In this article we explain sport climbing and trad climbing in detail, focusing on their similarities and differences, as well as the skills, knowledge, and equipment required for each. Reply reply reddit-sucks77 • Trad climbing 101 Learn everything you’ve ever wanted to know about trad climbing including the skills, gear, and popular destinations. 10b sport outside when I started getting into trad, then kinda had to start over when learning on gear. 7) at Leavenworth compare to those at Index? I've climbed a couple of easy routes at Index, such as Pisces, Great Northern Slab, Corner Flash, Hag Crack, and Senior Citizens in Space. I wasn’t thrilled with how the Infinity held up, even though I know it’s a favorite. You should try on shoes that are intended for multipitch trad climbing. Trad opens up more adventure-style climbing, tackling big walls and being out there on the wall for hours. The gear loops are tiny compared to my dead bird harness. Reply reply Tom0laSFW • 13 votes, 58 comments. I’ve been climbing about 8 years, leading trad consistently for maybe 3. Modern usage of the term trad climbing is where you place your own protection (nuts, cams, etc. I can generally tell which of the two styles I'm climbing or have just climbed, but I really want to know how to articulate the distinction From the abstract, emphasis added: Overall, climbing sports had a lower injury incidence and severity score than many popular sports, including basketball, sailing or soccer; indoor climbing ranked the lowest in terms of injuries of all sports assessed. It’s not like a 5. Went to get a new one at my local shop yesterday and was told 6mm is the way to go unless it's for TR. Learn the key differences to decide which style suits you best. I have both and love my old TCs but have had severe toe nail Issues since before even begin gon climbing and climbing made it much worse. I usually go wire gates for trad for lighter weight, but for sport climbing when I'm not as worried about weight I do the solid gates because they're much nicer to clip. I do rock climbing (in the gym and outside). Reply reply reddit-sucks77 • One of the reasons I like mythos for crack climbing is the thick, stiff toebox. Before you dismiss a harness as too expensive, think critically about what it really costs over its lifetime. I'm a newbie to crack and trad climbing, but am looking to get started once the season gets going. Nov 7, 2023 · This comprehensive guide will demystify three of the most popular and distinct climbing disciplines: Bouldering, Sport Climbing, and Traditional (Trad) Climbing. I led Cat in the Hat as my first multi-pitch trad lead. One big note - anything mentioned that fits this criteria, is going to be 100% parties free climbing it in a day. And yes we are scared of falling. I'm sure having more shoes can be nice, but definitely not required. Sport climbing isn’t it? If it helps for determining common practices, I believe the climbing video I am referencing was shot somewhere in the UK. 8 - 5. That is basically trad Vs. trad routes in my area. This past weekend -- for the first time in 2 years -- I went on a short sport climbing trip to a classic area, and was -- frankly -- bored. He taught us to place gear and he'll clean routes, but I don't think my dad has led a climb since his friends died. I still wear my sport harness if I’m projecting something and I know exactly what gear it takes or if I’m climbing offwidth (don’t wanna fuck up my expensive harness and I appreciate less bulk when climbing wide). PAS are handy, but i feel that that are so bulky and cluttered for the amount of use you get out of it. I guess I went into the conversation as a somewhat ignorant climber that almost exclusively boulders, I consider climbing with ropes and safety gear (non-trad) to be sport climbing. 9. The first pitch of chips and salsa is really easy. Both sports support each other pretty well. I thought I was getting on Buissonier 5. Trad climbing Hey man, Bouldering is climbing without a rope and you do not climb nearly as high. C4s are great for pure trad: when I’m pumped while placing gear I really enjoy a thumb loop. 1. There is no single perfect bolt, as different rock types and qualities dictate different types of appropriate bolts. The rubber retainer on the rope-side biner keeps the biner from rotating. Trad: you want to isolate your trad placements from rope motion so that the movement of the rope doesn't wiggle them out of place. for multipitch or single pitch trad climbing i use a clove. Trad climbers carry more biners, so some will go for the weight savings and either put up with the snagging or pay more for wire gate biners that have anti-snag stuff. ;) Reply reply is_907 • I think trad has ruined sport climbing for me I've been climbing 10 + years, 5 quite seriously, and have clipped bolts all over North America. 11c sport, gym I feel comfortable on 5. But, there's also sampling bias. Personally I enjoy half ropes for easy trad (that often wanders) and multipitch trad (same reason) and I use a single for “sport trad” like a perfectly straight finger crack with bomber nut placements but more on my limit. There are a Depends on what you're doing. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. 10 trad climber. I own bouldering stuff (two pads); sport climbing stuff (quick draws & rope); traditional climbing gear (sets of cams, nuts, tricams, hexes); aid climbing gear (pitons, hammers, ledge, pigs, bashies, etc); alpine/ice climbing gear (ice tools, mountaineering axe, screws, snargs, crampons, deadman anchors, boots, specialized clothing, etc Agree. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. As skiiers like to say, run what you brung. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Reddit's rock climbing training community. If you are single pitch climbing, it's probably fine, but multipitch climbing with a full double rack, draws, anchor material, atc/grigri, and water bottle/packable jacket gets really tight without a lot of gear loop space. For sport climbing (especially routes at your limit), quickdraws are the way to go. In sport climbing, bolts are usually maintained quite frequently, while long trad routes can commonly have old, low quality, unsafe bolts. I wear a 40/40. Very appealing as a 6mm cordalette bomb is quite a bit more compact than it's 7mm equivalent, but seems a lot weaker (8. Try Tonto as your first trad lead. Sometimes it's actually cheaper to buy sport draws and cannibalize the carabiners. People saying that crack climbing is harder than sport climbing at a given grade generally just aren't good crack climbers. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your Multi-pitch trad, alpine climbing, free soloing, and high ball bouldering I would say are extreme sports. You'll probably have it for several years and you might try a lot of different climbing styles in that time - get 4 full sized gear loops in case you want to learn to trad climb. I use them bouldering, top-roping, sport lead, trad, indoor, outdoor, every kind of rock, every temperature. You can also grab the dogbone. One of the reasons I like mythos for crack climbing is the thick, stiff toebox. Buy some 60cm slings and make your own alpine draws. I've also climbed outside a few times. I totally get why people may not really get stoked on trad climbing, but as others gently pointed out, they're wrong. We'll explore their core principles, essential gear, safety considerations, and the unique experiences they offer, providing a clear understanding of what sets each vertical pursuit apart. Big wall climbing is a science and an art. My background in placing gear is 30% alpine, 65% mixed sport climbing (you have bolts and pegs but using gear is advisable) and 5% pure trad. Maybe the community can help me out on a question I have on trad vs sport climbing and the definition of a “true send” In trad climbing you need to… When I started trad climbing I simply bought 60cm dyneema sling and converted my sport quickdraw into extendable. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. I'm headed to Leavenworth with my friend, who is also new to both trad and crack climbing, so we're looking to do the easiest possible routes so we can get solid on gear placements Climbing very obviously means different things to different people, and just like there is a difference between mountaineering and climbing, there’s a difference between climbing for the exposure / risk, and climbing for the physical/difficulty asked. No hanging on the rope to work out the moves (hang dogging). Was wondering what my ideal trad rack would be if money wasn't an issue. They do soften a lot over time though, but you can always buy a new pair. on the topic of PAS’s. This may be because i live in the netherlands, and there are no good outdoor places closeby. 11 on gear. A dogbone keeps the biners from spinning around. You don't say where your largely climbing but for the Lake District offsets are a total revelation. If your idea of "big wall" includes hauling or aiding you will create an enormous bottleneck, and be universally crapped on. May 29, 2020 · New to trad climbing? Our Beginner's Guide to Trad Climbing breaks down everything you need to know to get started trad climbing today. One device but I bring a backup for multipitch Different device based on discipline (sport vs trad vs alpine) Different device based on situation (single pitch vs multi, leader vs follower) Crashpad Voting closed Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best asanano • Multipitch backup is a munter Reply reply governator Otherwise, it's just like any other trad climb, albeit with slightly more route finding, slightly more vegetation, slightly colder, and more exhausting due to the elevation. I am considering a sized down TC pro or I would say trad climbing at the crag or a regular multipitch isn't alpinism, but if I were to climb a mountain via the south face or south facing ridge/pillar/buttress in summer (so basically only rock), so basically a trad multipitch that brings me to the top of a mountain and that required a glacial approach, than yes I would call it alpinism. Something between 9. This being said, it depends whats holding you back. I would argue route climbing gets you way more technical skills. Nov 27, 2023 · This article provides an in-depth comparison between sport climbing and trad climbing, including gear, types of routes, and safety measures. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your People saying that crack climbing is harder than sport climbing at a given grade generally just aren't good crack climbers. 109 votes, 35 comments. 9, but have been wondering lately; Should I stick with top rope, or is it better to "cross train" on bouldering problems? comfortable flashing a 5. 5 in my approach shoes and my TC pros are 39. Always thought 7mm was standard. Now I’m comfy to around 5. I’ve been trad climbing for 3 years now and am starting to break into 5. kzklw hgau yeyg iwmfan vwii rpuk etkz ayrou rss pcuxvq